30/12/15

CUAL ES EL MEJOR CACHORRO DE UNA CAMADA???


Se deben contemplar dos aspectos: la salud y el carácter del perro. El cachorro debe poseer sus papeles, en el caso que sea un perro de raza (certificado de apareamiento, certificado de nacimiento), sus certificados de vacunación, su libreta de tatuaje y ser objeto de un certificado de venta. Todo esto garantiza los antecedentes de un cachorro y su buen estado de salud, y permite disponer de un perro registrado en el Libro de Orígenes.

El criador debe presentar a todos los cachorros de la misma camada y a su madre. Esta última puede estar un poco flaca y tener los pezones lastimados, pero siempre debe tener un aspecto feliz, estar bien cuidada y parecer afectuosa. El cachorro no debe tener olor desagradable; sus excrementos deben ser de consistencia normal sin rastros de sangre; sus ojos brillantes; su nariz y sus orejas, limpios y su pelaje no debe presentar pelos sin brillo y quebradizos. 

Además, el cachorro debe ser alegre y juguetón, tanto con los demás perros de la camada como con los seres humanos. Tras la compra, es aconsejable consultar a un veterinario quien pondrá confirmar el buen estado de salud del animal y, sobre todo, efectuar la “visita de compra”.

Además, hay que verificar el espacio del que dispone el cachorro: cambiar de habitad no es agradable para el cachorro, pero si antes se encontraba en un espacio confinado y sin posibilidad de salir, la adaptación a su nuevo entorno será aún más difícil.

Entre todos los cachorros en buen estado de salud, la elección puede resultar muy difícil. El mejor método consiste en efectuar las pruebas de comportamiento establecidas por el etólogo norteamericana Campbell. Estas pruebas se deben practicar cuando los cachorros tienen siete semanas de edad, ya que antes de esta edad, el cachorro está aún muy influenciado por su madre y después, pasa por un período de fragilidad emotiva. Se deben realizar estas pruebas en un lugar cerrado y tranquilo, que el cachorro no conozca. La persona que las lleve a cabo deberá ser neutra y, por lo tanto, no tendrá que mostrar alegría ni cólera ni irritación durante el transcurso de las mismas.

Pruebas de Campbell 

Las pruebas o tests de Campbell permiten definir las grandes líneas de la personalidad del cachorro. Pero siempre hay que tener presente que lo innato, incluso cuando es preponderante, se puede modificar mediante todos los cuidados que el nuevo amo prodiga a su perro. De esta manera, el amo podrá reforzar algunos aspectos de la personalidad del cachorro y debilitar otros.
Prueba de atracción social (prueba de atracción al hombre)
Puede efectuarse en un cachorro de aproximadamente siete semanas de edad.
Después de colocar suavemente al cachorro en el piso, aléjese algunos metros, bata levemente las palmas de las manos y observe el comportamiento del animal:

1- El cachorro acude inmediatamente, con la cola en alto, le salta encima y le mordisquea las manos.
2- El cachorro acude inmediatamente, con la cola en alto, le rasca las manos con las patas.
3- El cachorro acude inmediatamente moviendo la cola
4- El cachorro acude titubeando, con la cola baja.
5- El cachorro no acude

Prueba de dominación social (prueba de aceptación de la dominación del hombre)

Deberá realizarlo una persona desconocida para el cachorro.
Acaricie al cachorro, en posición de esfinge, ejerciendo presión sobre su cabeza y su espalda:

1- El cachorro se debate arañando, se voltea, gruñe y mordisquea.
2- El cachorro se debate y se voltea para arañar.
3- El cachorro se debate, se calma y le lame las manos.
4- El cachorro se da vuelta, tumbándose sobre la espalda, y le lame las manos.
5- El cachorro se aleja.

Prueba de aptitud para seguir al amo
Se practica con un solo cachorro a la vez y sin hablar.

Levántese y desplácese lentamente dentro del campo visual del cachorro:

1- Lo sigue inmediatamente, con la cola en alto, mordisqueándole los pies
2- El cachorro actúa de la misma manera, pero sin mordisquear.
3- Lo sigue inmediatamente, con la cola baja.
4- Lo sigue titubeando, con la cola baja.
5- No lo sigue y se aleja.

Prueba de dignidad (prueba de pérdida de control de la posición)
Deberá efectuarlo una persona desconocida para el cachorro.

Levante al cachorro con las dos manos colocadas debajo de su pecho y manténgalo así durante 30 segundos:

1- El cachorro se debate violentamente, gruñe y muerde.
2- Se debate violentamente.
3- Se debate, luego se calma y le lame las manos.
4- No opone resistencia y le lame las manos.




Prueba de obligación (prueba de aceptación de la contención)
Deberá realizarlo una persona desconocida para el cachorro.
Después tumbar de espalda suavemente al cachorro, manténgalo durante 30 segundos aplicándole una mano sobre el pecho.



1- El cachorro se debate violentamente y mordisquea.
2- Se debate hasta liberarse.
3- Se debate y luego se calma.
4- No opone resistencia y le lame las manos





Resultados:

Mayoría de respuestas 1:
Dominante agresivo. No se aconseja como perro de compañía. Podrá convertirse en un buen perro de trabajo o de guardia si se lo adiestra correctamente.
Mayoría de respuestas 2:
Dominante extrovertido. Perro de trabajo que requiere una educación firme.
Mayoría de respuestas 3:
Equilibrado y adaptable.
Mayoría de respuestas 4:
Sumiso. Animal poco adecuado para el trabajo.
Mayoría de respuestas 5:
Inhibido. Perro mal sociabilizado, imprevisible.
A veces, los resultados son contradictorios. Se aconseja entonces volver a comenzar las pruebas, ya que el contexto puede haber sido inadecuado (cachorro demasiado joven, comida, estrés, sueño, etc.)



Dr. Roberto Serviddio

http://drserviddio.blogspot.com.uy/2010/08/que-cachorro-elegir-dentro-de-la-camada.html

24/12/15

THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS AT RAINBOW BRIDGE


T'was the night before Christmas, at Rainbow Bridge too.
We Bridge kids were thinking as always of you.
We'd seen how the holidays weren't bright this year,
Heard you whisper so often, "I wish you were here!"
We know how you wish you could just stay in bed
And sleep through the holiday lying ahead,
When all celebrate with their loved ones so near...
Unless they have loved ones on this side this year.
But we're no less alive here, on the other side.
If you could just see us, you would've laughed and not cried.
The dogs all in harness, pulling the sleigh.
The cats all in Santa hats pointing the way.
The pet birds all flying back over the rainbow,
Bound homeward in spite of Earth's darkness and snow.
All the pets that you've lost, pets for whom you've cried,
Flying home on this Christmas to be by your side.
If you feel warm fur brush you when no pet's around,
Hear a soft bark or purr, just a ghost of a sound,
We're trying to tell you we're visiting this way,
And our visits, even rainbows, can be on any day.
But for Christmas we have something special to do,
A sleigh full of happy dream visits for you.
On doggy, on kitty, on winged friend and ferret!
The love that you lavished, we mean now to share it!
We're fetching that love home, the way we once played,
With the closeness we shared and the memories we made.
Our Earth lives with you were too short for us, too,
And on this Christmas Eve we have so much to do.
So all through this night as you sleep in your beds,
Sweet visions of fur babies dance in your heads.
This one special night we can bring you Home for a while,
Your true home in Heaven, where again you will smile.
Over the rainbow you'll fly, for a short while this night,
Hours that you'll be happy, hours that will feel right,
Hours to cuddle and hug us, to run and to play,
Before the return to Earth in our magic way.
And when you awaken and face Christmas Day,
We pray you'll remember your trip on our sleigh,
But in case you forget, just remember our love.
Remember us watching you, your angels above.
Sending love wrapped in rainbows, shining and bright,
Love that will guide you through the darkest night,
Love found in each memory unwrapped through the year,
Replacing dark sorrows with Christmas cheer.
Leave the toys to St. Nick, we Bridge kids bring dreams,
Sweet visits to remind you all is not as it seems
When you look all around you with tired Earthly eyes.
If you saw as we do, there'd be joy and surprise.
There are fur angels waiting by those Christmas trees,
Always there for you and hearing your pleas.
We're never more than a thought away from your home,
You're never forgotten, you're never alone.
Nor are we alone here, with our Rainbow Bridge friends.
We know only joy here, the celebrating never ends,
And after our reunions with you Christmas Eve,
We Bridge kids will party like you'd never believe.
But we'll slip away often to be by your side.
Sitting there watching you, eyes open wide,
Praying you'll be able to catch a glimpse of us, too.
But whether or not you see us - 
Merry Christmas to you!


- Cindy Morgan (2007)

18/12/15

A LETTER FROM THE RAINBOW BRIDGE


Hi, Mum

Now that I’ve been across The Rainbow Bridge for a couple weeks, they said I should write a letter home. Sorry, mum, but I’m so busy ‘across the bridge’ that I haven’t thought of home much. They said it’s okay and that you would understand. I hope you do. (I think you will.)


Remember that night when I wasn’t feeling very well and we were all crying? I don’t remember much, but I do remember seeing and hearing all of you and feeling your touches and hugs…I remember hearing “we love you” and that one last command of “Go through”. I didn’t know what you meant, so I turned around and walked through the fog that was in front of me. I saw the biggest bridge I’ve ever seen! And so many friends on the other side of it! They were all playing with toys and balls! You were right to tell me to go there!


My feet kept moving forward, but my heart kept pulling me back. Your touches became lighter and lighter and I wanted to come back and nudge your hands for more love, but I was overcome by this feeling of curiosity for the happy place over the bridge! My feet started moving on their own, like a gentle breeze was moving them forward for me! I can’t explain it, but I had no doubt that it was the right thing to do!


So, I walked across that big, huge bridge by myself! I looked for you, because you’re always by my side, walking with me, but this was different. I didn’t have a collar around my neck or a leash connecting me to you ~ I was ‘free’! Even though you weren’t there with me, I never felt alone! I actually felt like I had a huge cape of love wrapped around my body and the more I walked, the easier it was to breathe! So, I kept walking! And I would feel more warmth in the big hug, so I kept on walking! I eventually made it over the big bridge – I did it by myself, mum!


When I got here, all of my new friends greeted me and helped me walk off the bridge ~ it was so cool! They gave me a pair of wings and said that I was now a Guardian Angel!


What I’ve learned over these past few weeks has been amazing and nothing like I’ve seen before! We’re all the same up here ~ we all have wings and we all have Forever People to watch over ~ that’s YOU, mum!You’re my Forever Person and I’m your Forever Dog! We had such a great life together and I do miss you a LOT, but please know that I am so happy in my new home across The Bridge!


I’ll send you another Earth Angel so you won’t be alone. Give them your whole heart, like you gave it to me. I’ll check in every so often to make sure they treasure your love ~ I always did! When you miss me, think of a rainbow and know I’m on the other side of it, waiting to walk with you again. I’ll always be in your heart. I love you, mum! Time for me to go play

17/12/15

COMO CUIDAR A TUS ANIMALES DE LA PIROTECNIA


Año tras año nuestras mascotas la pasan mal para las festividades de diciembre, que suelen ser unos de los momentos más traumáticos del año para ellas.
Es típico observar durante las fiestas navideñas o fin de año, cómo nuestros animalitos huyen a esconderse o cobijarse en algún rincón de la casa en busca de un lugar seguro, tranquilo, o se nos pegan a las piernas, debido a que los estruendos provocados por la pirotecnia, hacen que se pongan nerviosos, se asusten y sufran.

Algunas razas, más confundidas, huyen a la calle despavoridos, y se pierden.
Este temor tiene un origen innato y se explica por su alta sensibilidad ante estímulos sonoros intensos.




AYUDÁ A LOS PERROS, AYUDATE A VOS MISMO, DIFUNDÍ CONCIENCIA!
¿Cómo podemos evitar que nuestras mascotas sufran por los ruidos provocados por la pirotecnia?
Esta es una de las preguntas que más nos preocupa. Aquí van algunas de las razones para que puedas entender a tu perro y cuidarlo mejor.
Capacidad auditiva de nuestras mascotas
La capacidad auditiva de los perros (60.000 ciclos por segundo) se diferencia de la del humano (20.000 ciclos por segundo) por su gran aptitud para captar sonidos a altas frecuencias.
Pueden captar grandes densidades de ondas por segundo, gracias a lo cual perciben sonidos como los emitidos por los murciélagos y las ratas, que para el hombre son imperceptibles.
La explicación a esta peculiaridad está en los ancestros caninos: los lobos se alimentaban de roedores que producen sonidos ultrasónicos (imperceptibles para el oído humano) y para poder atrapar su alimento, tuvieron que agudizar su sentido auditivo para poder localizar a su presa.
En cuanto a la percepción de sonidos distantes, los perros pueden detectar un sonido débil a una distancia entre cuatro y cinco veces mayor que un ser humano.
Todas estas características les provocan a nuestras mascotas “hipersensibilidad auditiva”, donde los ruidos fuertes o explosiones provocados por pirotecnia, tormentas, etc. pueden causarles pánico y provocar que manifiesten conductas inhabituales, tales como huidas, agresividad, etc.

Ahora que ya tenemos las razones para entenderlos, debemos tomar ciertas medidas para que en las fiestas no sufran por los fuertes estallidos de la pirotecnia utilizada para festejar…



Estos son algunos aspectos a tener en cuenta:
1) tanto si te ausentás de tu casa como si recibís gente, apartá tus mascotas del ruido general:
  • disponé un ambiente cerrado de la casa, donde el animal se sienta cómodo para que descanse allí. (A veces los lugares que eligen solos son insólitos: la bañera, el armario, debajo del auto, en el garage, pero esto puede ser peligroso)
  • podés también ubicar a la mascota en el lugar más aislado de la casa, con las puertas cerradas. Dejale una radio o el televisor encendido a un volumen mediano que amortigüe los sonidos exteriores.
  • si acostumbra jugar con objetos, dejale un juguete o algo para morder.
  • ponele agua fresca y su plato con alimento balanceado. Si el lugar tiene ventilador, encendelo, esto brindará alivio a nuestro compañero en una situación que puede ser estresante, porque amortigua los ruidos que vienen del exterior de la habitación.
  • Vos ya conocés a tu perro, si aún así sigue ansioso, tené a mano gotas sedantes (previamente consultá con tu veterinario si podés administrarle este medicamento y la dosis) Para quien no las haya usado nunca, sepa que la primera vez tiene efecto mas intenso sobre el perro, y que no lo duerme, solo lo tranquiliza.


2. No olvidés la cantidad de casos de perros extraviados por temor y otros que se aparecen inopinadamente en el barrio, que vienen huyendo de los estallidos por estas fechas: no engrosés con tu animal esta lista, evitá que se escape, ofrecele un lugar aislado y seguro… y tenele paciencia…
Qué se puede hacer con un perro que encontramos desorientado por este miedo a las explosiones?
Generalmente lo vas a reconocer por su ansiedad, movimientos bruscos, y por tratar de meterse en cualquier hueco.Tal vez ya se metió en tu patio o casa… qué hacer?






  • De momento no lo asustés mas, hablale con calma, ofrecele agua y un rincón para que esté tranquilo, que sepa que está en un sitio amigable.

  • No te expongas a tratar de atarlo o algo por el estilo, tal vez sea un animal manso, pero está alterado y no se sabe cómo puede reaccionar.

  • En general solo basta contenerlo un tiempo, darle confianza que puede guarecerse sin temor a tener que seguir huyendo… (Imaginate por un momento vos en su lugar, o que el extraviado fuera TU PERRO, …cómo agradecerías una mano amiga, no?).

  • No hay que sobreproteger ni encerrar a un animal que ya de por sí viene despavorido, y aterrorizado. Puede ser peor.

  • Dale tiempo, tenele paciencia y cuando los ruidos amainen, él se irá tranquilizando.
  • Cuando sea el momento él se pondrá en camino nuevamente y se reorientará a su hogar…

  • Si no lo hace en tiempo prudencial, llamá a algún medio de comunicación dando aviso para que su dueño pase a buscarlo…


17/11/15

SOPHIE THE SHEEPIE - In Memoriam (To my Dear Friend Sophie)



Sheepdog Poem


November 14, 2015


God's Request
"I'll lend you for a little while, a Sheepdog pup," God said,

"for you to love him while he lives and mourn for when he's dead.
Maybe for twelve or fourteen years, or only two or three,
but will you, 'till I call him back, take care of him for me?"
"He'll bring his charms to gladden you and should his stay be brief,
you'll always have his memories as solace for your grief.
I cannot promise he will stay, since all from earth return,
but there are lessons taught below I want this pup to learn."
"I looked the whole world over in search of teachers true,
and from the folk that crowd life's land, I have chosen you.
Now will you give him all your love, nor think the labour vain,
nor hate me when I come to take my bobtail back again?"
I fancied that I heard them say, "Dear Lord, thy will be done.
For all the joys this pup will bring, the risk of grief we'll run.
We'll shelter him with tenderness. We'll love him while we may,
and for the happiness we've known, forever grateful stay."
"But should you come to call him back much sooner than we've planned,
we'll brave the bitter grief that comes and try to understand.
If by our love we've managed your wishes to achieve,
in memory of him we loved, to help us while we grieve.
When our shaggy, faithful bundle departs this world of strife,
we'll have another tailess pup and we'll love him all his life."

16/11/15

PLUCKING EAR HAIR FROM THE OES EAR

 
Home Grooming The Companion Old English Sheepdog
Plucking Hair From The Ears
Of An Old English Sheepdog
(Easy Dog)
Below is just one way an Old English Sheepdog owner tends to a dog's ears.  Dogs often need to be slowly desensitized to any new process.  This process can be more challenging to some owners because some dogs are more sensitive to having hair plucked from their ears. The vibration of electric clippers can startle a dog so you need to be slowly desensitize a dog to this process.  You need to proceed slowly, respect the dog's limits, praise and reward lavishly so the dog will learn to tolerate it.  Only you know your dog and how he or she may respond.  Seek assistance from a professional if there is any chance your dog could be harmed by it's exuberance or fear or if the dog could display an aggressive behavior. Follow all product safety instructions provided by individual manufacturers.  Try to make grooming a special one-on-one time that both you and your dog will look forward to.   These instructions are offered as-is and without guarantee or warranty.
When I was first told by by my vet that I needed to pluck an Old English Sheepdog's ear hair, I know I made a face.  "Oooh... but it's going to hurt."  He flipped up the ear flap on the puppy, pinched a couple of hairs between his thumb and index finger and quickly plucked it out.  He put the ear flap back down.  That particular dog never flinched.  That was my introduction to the process of plucking ear hair. 
Ear Plucking... some dogs tolerate the process very well. Others hate having it done and may require sedation by a veterinarian so the hair can be professionally removed.  This is why it's important to get the puppy or dog to view this process as tolerable.  The way I've desensitized my Old English Sheepdog puppies to ear plucking is during their "introduction to grooming". Even my Old English Sheepdog that arrived at close to 11 months of age went through this same process.  It involves brief play grooming sessions each evening. I think many dogs look for, "What's in it for me?".  All of my dogs are food motivated so it makes things easier.  Play grooming... treats... play grooming.... treats... play grooming... treats... etc.
The first time I pluck a dog's ears, I flip an ear flap (also known as the pinna), pinch maybe 2-3 hairs and quickly remove it.  I give the dog a treat immediately after plucking the hair so he or she associates the action with "something good is going to follow".  We then go back to play grooming.  I go to the other ear a little later do the same thing and that's it for the day. It doesn't appear that much has been accomplished but if you play groom every evening, it can add up over a month or two.  I slowly add a couple more hairs to each pluck as days goes by but only if the dog has been tolerating it well. 
 Before
After
What You're Trying To Accomplish...
Above is an example of an Old English Sheepdog's ear before being plucked and after.  The reason for plucking the hair from an Old English Sheepdog's ears is to improve airflow, make cleaning easier and to reduce the risk of infection from bacteria or yeast.  Ears that don't have plugs of hair in them will dry out faster too.  The hair is plucked from both inside the ear canal and from the ear flap near the ear opening using my fingers.  I use a battery operated palm clipper on the ridge in front of the ear opening.
This is an example of what can be found inside an Old English Sheepdog's ears.  It's a waxy clump of hair that was
removed with my fingers from deep in the ear canal. Hair left in the ears tends to collect wax and it can limit air flow.  

This is simply the ear care product I use.  There are
many others... use the product(s) you feel works best.
Some people prefer to use tools to remove ear hair... I choose to use my fingers instead.  I don't have to worry accidentally injuring the dog if he suddenly jumps because someone's at the door. I surely don't have the most beautiful hands but my short nails won't cause a dog any harm either.  You will need to be careful if you do have longer finger nails. 
  • Bio-Groom Ear-Fresh Astringent Ear Powder
    Use: Ear powder allows you to get a better grip on the hair your trying to remove.
  • If your dog is prone to ear infections, speak with your vet about the best products to use.  Also ask whether applying an ear antibiotic like Mometamax immediately after plucking might help to prevent ear infections due to bacteria.  This product requires a prescription.
  • I wait at least a couple of days for the plucked ear tissue to settle down before using any ear cleaner with alcohol in it because it would sting.  If ears are waxy, I will use an alcohol-free solution and a cotton ball to wipe the ear flap and outer ear canal area down. Choose an ear cleaner that's less likely to sting like Pfizer Oti-Clens or Butler Euclens Otic Cleanser.
Ear powder between the
thumb and index finger
plucking hair from ear flap.
The Technique (for the dog with the white ear)... I've been known to get a little carried away with ear powder (see the dog's ear below and in the other photo demo).  If the dog's ears are particularly greasy/oily and there's lots of hair, it's best to use the "puff" method to dispense the powder.  On dogs with less profuse ear hair, rather than "puffing" the powder on the ear hair, I sometimes put a small amount on my index finger and press my thumb into it.  It's just enough to give me the grip I need to pluck the hair.  I repeat this as needed. 
Plucking is a quick, decisive act... not a slow, pulling motion.It does NOT need to be lavish or exaggerated though. You don't want to excite or distress the dog.
 
Before Beginning... I inspect the ears to see if they are unusually dirty or for signs of infection like redness, yeast or drainage.   If the ears are dirty, I thoroughly clean them out and wait a couple of days to pluck them.  If any infection or unusual odor is noted, I will not pluck the ears.  I address the problem with a visit to the vet and wait until the ears are again healthy.
If the ears look good, I gather up my supplies and treats if the dog is less tolerant.  I have the dog get up on the grooming table or I sit next to them on the floor, couch or bed.   I have the dog lie on his/her side and give the dog a treat... I then go to work.  NOTE:  I give a treat with the hand I'm not using to remove ear hair! 
I first comb out the ear hair away from the ear opening and make sure there is no infection.  If I find an infection, I will not proceed with the ear plucking. 
The area inside the green box is the area I focus on first... it's the front of the ear opening.  Note that I do not pluck the hair in this area.  Instead, I use a palm clipper to trim it shorter.
Clipper Tips
  • Before trimming for the first time, get to know how your dog's ears were created.
  • Glide the clipper blade over the skin, don't apply pressure or you could cause painful razor burn. 
  • Keep the blade level with the skin as you shave so you don't cut skin.  Use extra care when there are narrow or raised areas of skin like the raised area in front of the ear opening.
  • You could also use scissors if you do not have clipper.
  • If you use a standard electric clipper and a #10 blade, be sure the blade is cool before trimming this sensitive area.
Note: The hair has already been shaved off and plucked so you can see the process more clearly. 
I use a battery operated palm clipper on the front area of the ear opening (inside the green box above).  I either cover the ear opening with my thumb or a cotton ball or I trim away from the opening to prevent the hair clippings from falling inside the ear canal.  Pick off any loose hair before removing the cotton ball or your thumb.
This picture shows the direction I glide the clippers.
No need to apply pressure as you clip... you're just
removing the tufts of hair so there will be better airflow. 
You can also trim away from the ear opening if you're
careful to avoid the outer ridge/edge of the ear opening.
You never want it to come into contact with the clipper teeth.

I then pluck the hair within the green area
and inside the ear canal using my fingers.
I grasp a small amount of hair and pluck it in the direction the hair grows.  If a dog is real sensitive, I'll only pluck a couple of hairs at a time because it's always best to maintain the dog's trust.  The job does not need to be completed in one sitting.  The idea is to get the dog to willingly tolerate the process, not dread it.
Almost done... just plucking some of the hair from the ear flap.This ear is all done!   I then do the same thing with the other ear.
I take a quick look in the ears over the next couple of days after plucking them to be sure there's no sign of infection or irritation.  I'll clean the ears with one of the alcohol-free ear cleaners previously mentioned if they look a little irritated.  I'll wait a couple of days before using the usual K-9 Liquid Health Ear Solution that contains alcohol. 
This Old English Sheepdog's ears are very easy to maintain.  She doesn't mind the process as long as there's a reward at the end of the plucking session.  Some dogs have a lot more ear hair and don't care much for the process.  Click here for one such dog.

11/11/15

ANOTHER POSSIBLE OES ANCESTOR - THE SOUTH RUSSIAN OVTCHARKA

South Russian Ovtcharka

(South Russian Owtcharka) (South Russian Sheepdog) (South Russian Shepherd Dog) (Youzhnorusskya ovcharka) (Youzhak) (Ioujnorousskaïa Ovtcharka)

Photo courtesy of Diane Sari Sarisin´s Southrussian Ovcharka
Description
The South Russian Ovtcharka is robust and lean with massive bone structure and strongly developed musculature. The coat is 4-6 inches long (10-15 cm), coarse, thick and dense, and of equal length on the head, chest, legs and tail, with a well-developed undercoat. Coat colors are most often white but also white and yellow, straw color, grayish (ashen gray) and other shades of gray, white lightly marked with gray and gray speckled. The head is an elongated shape with a moderately broad forehead; the occipital crest and the zeugmatic arches are strongly pronounced. The stop is barely visible. The nose is big and black. The ears are relatively small, of triangular shape and hanging. The eyes are oval shape, set horizontally, dark; the eyelids are lean and tight. The teeth are white, big, fitting closely. The incisors are set regularly and close in scissor bite. The neck is lean, muscular, of moderate length, set high. The chest is reasonably broad, slightly flattened and deep. The belly is moderately tucked up. The loin is short, broad and rounded. The withers are apparent but not high. Back is straight and strong. The tail falls at rest, reaching the hock, with the end curved upward. The front legs are straight, parallel and relatively long. The angle formed by the shoulder bone and upper arm bone is about 100 degrees. Pasterns are strong, wide and long, with a slight slant. Hindquarters are powerful, wide set, parallel and well-angulated. The upper thighs are well-muscled. Stifle bones are long and inclined. Hock joint is clean-cut and angular. The hock is strong, long and slightly inclined. The feet are oval shaped, strong, well-arched and covered with long hair.
Temperament
The Ovtcharka of southern Russia is a very large, robust dog. He adapts easily to diverse climatic conditions and temperatures. This breed needs an owner who knows how to display strong leadership; someone who is firm, confident, and 100% consistent. If you do not show your authority over this flock guard, he may become very dominant with strange people and other dogs. This breed is not very demanding, but he does need a strong-minded human to be his leader. Males are stronger and more massive than females. They were bred to guard their property; therefore, they are independent and will respond negatively to nervous activity. These dogs are strong, balanced and lively. They have a dominant reaction; it is their active way of defense.  As guardians they extend themselves to include their families, their home and as much land as they can scent and thus fully call their own. The possessive nature of this dog requires extensive property, a sizable family, and preferably other animals that he can protect. He has a dominating personality and can enforce his will upon other dogs with ease. Socialize well while young. This is not a breed for the inexperienced or meek owner.
Height, weight
Height: Males 25 inches (65 cm) minimum, Females 24 inches (62 cm) minimum
Weight: 108 - 110 pounds (48 - 50 kg)
Health Problems
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Living Conditions
The South Russian Ovtcharka is not recommended for apartment life. 
Exercise
This breed needs plenty of exercise to stay in shape. If these dogs are not actively working as flock guardians, they need to be taken on a daily, long brisk walk.
Life Expectancy
About 9-11 years
Grooming
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Origin
Historians and cynologists have different versions about the SRO breed’s origin. Some believe the SRO is developed from Pra-slavics (arias dogs). They resided at the SROs place of origin at 4 BC and used the original pre-historic bearded (“broudasti” in Russian) dogs as herders and guardians. They were described by L.P Sabaneev as Russian Shepherds or Russian wolf-killers. As the arias moved west and north, and those tribes were named Slavic, the bearded dogs were referred to as Russian Shepherds. Dogs were kept in quantity by Russian aristocracy. This is a Russian Native Breed, completely developed by 1790.
In another version, the SRO originated from European herding dogs of the same hair type known as the Austrian Shepherd. The SRO and European herding dogs of the similar hair type look alike and have the same ancestors. Several herding dogs with long, wooly hair were imported to Russia from Europe. In Russian Imperial Law Books (XXVI volume, 1830) there is mentioned a special breed of dogs imported at 1797 from Spain with merino sheep. Those dogs were used for both herding and protection against predators, highly praised for their abilities. Law books recommended breeding these dogs. Russian scientists specializing at southern steppes before 1797 wrote that local sheep herds are protected by wolf-looking dogs and hounds (believed to be SRO ancestors).
Small Austrian Shepherds were not suitable for Russian steppes. Sizable territory and natural merino sheep's instinct, keeping the herd together, excluded the need for small herding dogs. There only was the great need to protect from predators. So Austrians were crossbred with “tatar” shepherds (similar to Caucasian) and sighthounds, the most common breed in the Crimea area at that time. Offspring selected were large, aggressive and hardy.
Arguments about SRO ancestry are endless. However, there are facts nobody can argue with. SROs definitely have wolf as the direct ancestor. The SRO skull is built almost identical to the wolf’s, with only slight differences, that could be explained by domestication.
“Barak” is an old Turk word. In the well-known “Turk Languages Vocabulary” by Mohammed Kashgarsky (XI century) “barak” is interpreted as “the dog with long, wooly hair, exceptionally fast and agile, the best among hunting dogs.” This description sounds like an SRO. The body and limbs of the South Russian are very similar to the sighthounds’. Speed, swiftness and lightening reaction is inherited from hound ancestors.
Group
Flock Guardian
Recognition
FCI, CKC, APRI, ACR, DRA, ACA
FCI = Fédération Cynologique Internationale
CKC = Continental Kennel Club
APRI = American Pet Registry, Inc.
ACR = American Canine Registry

DRA = Dog Registry of America, Inc.ACA = American Canine Association Inc.
Photo courtesy of Diane Sari Sarisin´s Southrussian Ovcharka

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Photo courtesy of Diane Sari Sarisin´s Southrussian Ovcharka
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