SOPHIE THE SHEEPIE - In Memoriam (To my Dear Friend Sophie)

Sheepdog Poem


November 14, 2015

God's Request

"I'll lend you for a little while, a Sheepdog pup," God said,

"for you to love him while he lives and mourn for when he's dead.

Maybe for twelve or fourteen years, or only two or three,

but will you, 'till I call him back, take care of him for me?"

"He'll bring his charms to gladden you and should his stay be brief,

you'll always have his memories as solace for your grief.

I cannot promise he will stay, since all from earth return,

but there are lessons taught below I want this pup to learn."

"I looked the whole world over in search of teachers true,

and from the folk that crowd life's land, I have chosen you.

Now will you give him all your love, nor think the labour vain,

nor hate me when I come to take my bobtail back again?"

I fancied that I heard them say, "Dear Lord, thy will be done.

For all the joys this pup will bring, the risk of grief we'll run.

We'll shelter him with tenderness. We'll love him while we may,

and for the happiness we've known, forever grateful stay."

"But should you come to call him back much sooner than we've planned,

we'll brave the bitter grief that comes and try to understand.

If by our love we've managed your wishes to achieve,

in memory of him we loved, to help us while we grieve.

When our shaggy, faithful bundle departs this world of strife,

we'll have another tailess pup and we'll love him all his life."

PLUCKING EAR HAIR FROM THE OES EAR

Home Grooming The Companion Old English Sheepdog Plucking Hair From The Ears Of An Old English Sheepdog (Easy Dog)

Below is just one way an Old English Sheepdog owner tends to a dog's ears.  Dogs often need to be slowly desensitized to any new process.  This process can be more challenging to some owners because some dogs are more sensitive to having hair plucked from their ears. The vibration of electric clippers can startle a dog so you need to be slowly desensitize a dog to this process.  You need to proceed slowly, respect the dog's limits, praise and reward lavishly so the dog will learn to tolerate it.  Only you know your dog and how he or she may respond.  Seek assistance from a professional if there is any chance your dog could be harmed by it's exuberance or fear or if the dog could display an aggressive behavior. Follow all product safety instructions provided by individual manufacturers.  Try to make grooming a special one-on-one time that both you and your dog will look forward to.   These instructions are offered as-is and without guarantee or warranty.

When I was first told by by my vet that I needed to pluck an Old English Sheepdog's ear hair, I know I made a face.  "Oooh... but it's going to hurt."  He flipped up the ear flap on the puppy, pinched a couple of hairs between his thumb and index finger and quickly plucked it out.  He put the ear flap back down.  That particular dog never flinched.  That was my introduction to the process of plucking ear hair. 

Ear Plucking... some dogs tolerate the process very well. Others hate having it done and may require sedation by a veterinarian so the hair can be professionally removed.  This is why it's important to get the puppy or dog to view this process as tolerable.  The way I've desensitized my Old English Sheepdog puppies to ear plucking is during their "introduction to grooming". Even my Old English Sheepdog that arrived at close to 11 months of age went through this same process.  It involves brief play grooming sessions each evening. I think many dogs look for, "What's in it for me?".  All of my dogs are food motivated so it makes things easier.  Play grooming... treats... play grooming.... treats... play grooming... treats... etc.

The first time I pluck a dog's ears, I flip an ear flap (also known as the pinna), pinch maybe 2-3 hairs and quickly remove it.  I give the dog a treat immediately after plucking the hair so he or she associates the action with "something good is going to follow".  We then go back to play grooming.  I go to the other ear a little later do the same thing and that's it for the day. It doesn't appear that much has been accomplished but if you play groom every evening, it can add up over a month or two.  I slowly add a couple more hairs to each pluck as days goes by but only if the dog has been tolerating it well. 

Before	After
What You're Trying To Accomplish... Above is an example of an Old English Sheepdog's ear before being plucked and after.  The reason for plucking the hair from an Old English Sheepdog's ears is to improve airflow, make cleaning easier and to reduce the risk of infection from bacteria or yeast.  Ears that don't have plugs of hair in them will dry out faster too.  The hair is plucked from both inside the ear canal and from the ear flap near the ear opening using my fingers.  I use a battery operated palm clipper on the ridge in front of the ear opening. This is an example of what can be found inside an Old English Sheepdog's ears.  It's a waxy clump of hair that was removed with my fingers from deep in the ear canal. Hair left in the ears tends to collect wax and it can limit air flow.   This is simply the ear care product I use.  There are many others... use the product(s) you feel works best. Some people prefer to use tools to remove ear hair... I choose to use my fingers instead.  I don't have to worry accidentally injuring the dog if he suddenly jumps because someone's at the door. I surely don't have the most beautiful hands but my short nails won't cause a dog any harm either.  You will need to be careful if you do have longer finger nails.  Bio-Groom Ear-Fresh Astringent Ear Powder Use: Ear powder allows you to get a better grip on the hair your trying to remove. If your dog is prone to ear infections, speak with your vet about the best products to use.  Also ask whether applying an ear antibiotic like Mometamax immediately after plucking might help to prevent ear infections due to bacteria.  This product requires a prescription. I wait at least a couple of days for the plucked ear tissue to settle down before using any ear cleaner with alcohol in it because it would sting.  If ears are waxy, I will use an alcohol-free solution and a cotton ball to wipe the ear flap and outer ear canal area down. Choose an ear cleaner that's less likely to sting like Pfizer Oti-Clens or Butler Euclens Otic Cleanser. Ear powder between the thumb and index finger plucking hair from ear flap. The Technique (for the dog with the white ear)... I've been known to get a little carried away with ear powder (see the dog's ear below and in the other photo demo).  If the dog's ears are particularly greasy/oily and there's lots of hair, it's best to use the "puff" method to dispense the powder.  On dogs with less profuse ear hair, rather than "puffing" the powder on the ear hair, I sometimes put a small amount on my index finger and press my thumb into it.  It's just enough to give me the grip I need to pluck the hair.  I repeat this as needed.  Plucking is a quick, decisive act... not a slow, pulling motion.It does NOT need to be lavish or exaggerated though. You don't want to excite or distress the dog.   Before Beginning... I inspect the ears to see if they are unusually dirty or for signs of infection like redness, yeast or drainage.   If the ears are dirty, I thoroughly clean them out and wait a couple of days to pluck them.  If any infection or unusual odor is noted, I will not pluck the ears.  I address the problem with a visit to the vet and wait until the ears are again healthy. If the ears look good, I gather up my supplies and treats if the dog is less tolerant.  I have the dog get up on the grooming table or I sit next to them on the floor, couch or bed.   I have the dog lie on his/her side and give the dog a treat... I then go to work.  NOTE:  I give a treat with the hand I'm not using to remove ear hair!
I first comb out the ear hair away from the ear opening and make sure there is no infection.  If I find an infection, I will not proceed with the ear plucking.	The area inside the green box is the area I focus on first... it's the front of the ear opening.  Note that I do not pluck the hair in this area.  Instead, I use a palm clipper to trim it shorter.
Clipper Tips Before trimming for the first time, get to know how your dog's ears were created. Glide the clipper blade over the skin, don't apply pressure or you could cause painful razor burn.  Keep the blade level with the skin as you shave so you don't cut skin.  Use extra care when there are narrow or raised areas of skin like the raised area in front of the ear opening. You could also use scissors if you do not have clipper. If you use a standard electric clipper and a #10 blade, be sure the blade is cool before trimming this sensitive area.	Note: The hair has already been shaved off and plucked so you can see the process more clearly.  I use a battery operated palm clipper on the front area of the ear opening (inside the green box above).  I either cover the ear opening with my thumb or a cotton ball or I trim away from the opening to prevent the hair clippings from falling inside the ear canal.  Pick off any loose hair before removing the cotton ball or your thumb.
This picture shows the direction I glide the clippers. No need to apply pressure as you clip... you're just removing the tufts of hair so there will be better airflow.	You can also trim away from the ear opening if you're careful to avoid the outer ridge/edge of the ear opening. You never want it to come into contact with the clipper teeth.
I then pluck the hair within the green area and inside the ear canal using my fingers.	I grasp a small amount of hair and pluck it in the direction the hair grows.  If a dog is real sensitive, I'll only pluck a couple of hairs at a time because it's always best to maintain the dog's trust.  The job does not need to be completed in one sitting.  The idea is to get the dog to willingly tolerate the process, not dread it.
Almost done... just plucking some of the hair from the ear flap.	This ear is all done!   I then do the same thing with the other ear.
I take a quick look in the ears over the next couple of days after plucking them to be sure there's no sign of infection or irritation.  I'll clean the ears with one of the alcohol-free ear cleaners previously mentioned if they look a little irritated.  I'll wait a couple of days before using the usual K-9 Liquid Health Ear Solution that contains alcohol.  This Old English Sheepdog's ears are very easy to maintain.  She doesn't mind the process as long as there's a reward at the end of the plucking session.  Some dogs have a lot more ear hair and don't care much for the process.  Click here for one such dog.

ANOTHER POSSIBLE OES ANCESTOR - THE SOUTH RUSSIAN OVTCHARKA

South Russian Ovtcharka

(South Russian Owtcharka) (South Russian Sheepdog) (South Russian Shepherd Dog) (Youzhnorusskya ovcharka) (Youzhak) (Ioujnorousskaïa Ovtcharka)

Photo courtesy of Diane Sari Sarisin´s Southrussian Ovcharka

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Description	The South Russian Ovtcharka is robust and lean with massive bone structure and strongly developed musculature. The coat is 4-6 inches long (10-15 cm), coarse, thick and dense, and of equal length on the head, chest, legs and tail, with a well-developed undercoat. Coat colors are most often white but also white and yellow, straw color, grayish (ashen gray) and other shades of gray, white lightly marked with gray and gray speckled. The head is an elongated shape with a moderately broad forehead; the occipital crest and the zeugmatic arches are strongly pronounced. The stop is barely visible. The nose is big and black. The ears are relatively small, of triangular shape and hanging. The eyes are oval shape, set horizontally, dark; the eyelids are lean and tight. The teeth are white, big, fitting closely. The incisors are set regularly and close in scissor bite. The neck is lean, muscular, of moderate length, set high. The chest is reasonably broad, slightly flattened and deep. The belly is moderately tucked up. The loin is short, broad and rounded. The withers are apparent but not high. Back is straight and strong. The tail falls at rest, reaching the hock, with the end curved upward. The front legs are straight, parallel and relatively long. The angle formed by the shoulder bone and upper arm bone is about 100 degrees. Pasterns are strong, wide and long, with a slight slant. Hindquarters are powerful, wide set, parallel and well-angulated. The upper thighs are well-muscled. Stifle bones are long and inclined. Hock joint is clean-cut and angular. The hock is strong, long and slightly inclined. The feet are oval shaped, strong, well-arched and covered with long hair.
Temperament	The Ovtcharka of southern Russia is a very large, robust dog. He adapts easily to diverse climatic conditions and temperatures. This breed needs an owner who knows how to display strong leadership; someone who is firm, confident, and 100% consistent. If you do not show your authority over this flock guard, he may become very dominant with strange people and other dogs. This breed is not very demanding, but he does need a strong-minded human to be his leader. Males are stronger and more massive than females. They were bred to guard their property; therefore, they are independent and will respond negatively to nervous activity. These dogs are strong, balanced and lively. They have a dominant reaction; it is their active way of defense.  As guardians they extend themselves to include their families, their home and as much land as they can scent and thus fully call their own. The possessive nature of this dog requires extensive property, a sizable family, and preferably other animals that he can protect. He has a dominating personality and can enforce his will upon other dogs with ease. Socialize well while young. This is not a breed for the inexperienced or meek owner.
Height, weight	Height: Males 25 inches (65 cm) minimum, Females 24 inches (62 cm) minimum Weight: 108 - 110 pounds (48 - 50 kg)
Health Problems	-
Living Conditions	The South Russian Ovtcharka is not recommended for apartment life.
Exercise	This breed needs plenty of exercise to stay in shape. If these dogs are not actively working as flock guardians, they need to be taken on a daily, long brisk walk.
Life Expectancy	About 9-11 years
Grooming	-
Origin	Historians and cynologists have different versions about the SRO breed’s origin. Some believe the SRO is developed from Pra-slavics (arias dogs). They resided at the SROs place of origin at 4 BC and used the original pre-historic bearded (“broudasti” in Russian) dogs as herders and guardians. They were described by L.P Sabaneev as Russian Shepherds or Russian wolf-killers. As the arias moved west and north, and those tribes were named Slavic, the bearded dogs were referred to as Russian Shepherds. Dogs were kept in quantity by Russian aristocracy. This is a Russian Native Breed, completely developed by 1790. In another version, the SRO originated from European herding dogs of the same hair type known as the Austrian Shepherd. The SRO and European herding dogs of the similar hair type look alike and have the same ancestors. Several herding dogs with long, wooly hair were imported to Russia from Europe. In Russian Imperial Law Books (XXVI volume, 1830) there is mentioned a special breed of dogs imported at 1797 from Spain with merino sheep. Those dogs were used for both herding and protection against predators, highly praised for their abilities. Law books recommended breeding these dogs. Russian scientists specializing at southern steppes before 1797 wrote that local sheep herds are protected by wolf-looking dogs and hounds (believed to be SRO ancestors). Small Austrian Shepherds were not suitable for Russian steppes. Sizable territory and natural merino sheep's instinct, keeping the herd together, excluded the need for small herding dogs. There only was the great need to protect from predators. So Austrians were crossbred with “tatar” shepherds (similar to Caucasian) and sighthounds, the most common breed in the Crimea area at that time. Offspring selected were large, aggressive and hardy. Arguments about SRO ancestry are endless. However, there are facts nobody can argue with. SROs definitely have wolf as the direct ancestor. The SRO skull is built almost identical to the wolf’s, with only slight differences, that could be explained by domestication. “Barak” is an old Turk word. In the well-known “Turk Languages Vocabulary” by Mohammed Kashgarsky (XI century) “barak” is interpreted as “the dog with long, wooly hair, exceptionally fast and agile, the best among hunting dogs.” This description sounds like an SRO. The body and limbs of the South Russian are very similar to the sighthounds’. Speed, swiftness and lightening reaction is inherited from hound ancestors.
Group	Flock Guardian
Recognition	FCI, CKC, APRI, ACR, DRA, ACA

FCI = Fédération Cynologique Internationale CKC = Continental Kennel Club APRI = American Pet Registry, Inc. ACR = American Canine Registry DRA = Dog Registry of America, Inc.ACA = American Canine Association Inc.

Photo courtesy of Diane Sari Sarisin´s Southrussian Ovcharka

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Photo courtesy of Diane Sari Sarisin´s Southrussian Ovcharka

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Why Does My OES Refuse To Go Outside In The Rain?

It’s pouring and your dog has to go potty. Problem is he hates the rain! Why? Most dogs do not like going out in the rain. Honestly can you blame them? Do you enjoy going out in the rain and getting wet? Well, ok, many of you here in Arizona probably welcome the chance to walk (or dance) in the rain as it is a rare occurrence for us.

3 Common Reasons Why Your Dog Doesn’t Like The Rain:

1. Thunderstorm Phobia could most definitely be a precursor to the arrival of the rain. This can cause your dog to become anxious, pace and experience excessive panting. It is not really known why dog’s sense approaching storms but it does affect them. This could cause the apprehension felt when the rain arrives, not feeling comfortable going out into it.

2. Some say that due to the sound of rain being amplified it distorts the sound waves. This distortion tends to hurt the pups ears which are already sensitive. It is believed to cause the similar effect with creation of rainbows.  Additionally, it’s believed that up to 20% of all dogs develop a phobia to sound and not just sounds like firework and Thunderstorms – rustling of leaves, ceiling fans, and the crinkle of garbage bag can bother your dog too.

3. Some dogs don’t appreciate the pelting rain hitting their bodies. This is especially true   if you have an anxious or sensitive dog. The rain can be distracting and being pelted while trying to potty can scare them.

There You Can Do To Comfort Your Pup:

By trying these things, you can make going out in the rain a more tolerable and maybe eventually enjoyable experience:

– Go out with them. You being with your dog (anywhere) boosts his confidence and makes him feel safe. Don’t just open the door and tell him to go out, join him.

– Try using an umbrella. This will keep him dry and keep the tapping rain from hitting his body. You can’t go wrong with an umbrella. There are even these fantastic little umbrellas that attach to your dog’s harness!

– Rain gear is very helpful for some dogs. If your dog likes wearing sweaters, boots and clothing give this a try. Again it will keep him dry and he can accomplish hi business.

– Stick cotton balls in their ears This has been known to help cut down on the loudness of the rain to them.

In any case, just keep in mind that we Arizonaians might be doing a rain dance, but many pets are on a bladder strike until it passes. Leaning about how to overcome the causes of your dog not liking the rain might come in handy some day!

http://bellashouseandpets.com/dog-refuse-go-outside-rain/

ANOTHER OES ANCESTOR

POLISH LOWLAND SHEEPDOG

Originally bred for herding and guarding, the Polish Lowland Sheepdog is still an excellent working dog breed. He is obedient and fearless, good-natured with people and other dogs, but highly protective of his flock. He is intelligent, active, strong, and handsome with his characteristic multicolored shaggy coat. In recent years, he has gained popularity as a companion dog.

Additional articles you will be interested in:

Adoption
Dog Names
Bringing Home Your Dog
Help with Training Puppies
Housetraining Puppies
Feeding a Puppy
Dog games
Teaching your dog tricks
How to take pictures of your dog

image: http://cdn2-www.dogtime.com/assets/uploads/2011/01/file_23194_polish-lowland-sheepdog-460x290.jpg

Breed Characteristics:

Adaptability

Adapts Well to Apartment Living3MORE INFO +

Good For Novice Owners4MORE INFO +

Sensitivity Level4MORE INFO +

Tolerates Being Alone3MORE INFO +

Tolerates Cold Weather4MORE INFO +

Tolerates Hot Weather4MORE INFO +

All Around Friendliness

Affectionate with Family5MORE INFO +

Kid Friendly4MORE INFO +

Dog Friendly3MORE INFO +

Friendly Toward Strangers3MORE INFO +

Health Grooming

Amount Of Shedding2MORE INFO +

Drooling Potential3MORE INFO +

Easy To Groom2MORE INFO +

General Health4MORE INFO +

Potential For Weight Gain3MORE INFO +

Size3MORE INFO +

Trainability

Easy To Train4MORE INFO +

Intelligence4MORE INFO +

Potential For Mouthiness3MORE INFO +

Prey Drive3MORE INFO +

Tendency To Bark Or Howl2MORE INFO +

Wanderlust Potential2MORE INFO +

Exercise Needs

Energy Level4MORE INFO +

Intensity3MORE INFO +

Exercise Needs4MORE INFO +

Potential For Playfulness4MORE INFO +

Vital Stats:

Dog Breed Group:Herding Dogs
Height:1 foot, 5 inches to 1 foot, 8 inches tall at the shoulder
Weight:35 to 55 pounds
Life Span:10 to 12 years

• The Polish Lowland Sheepdog is a medium-sized, long-haired dog who, as his name suggests, originates from Poland. Polish Lowland Sheepdog is the literal translation of his Polish name, Polski Owczarek Nizinny (pronounced poll-ski ov-cha-rik nee-shinny). In the United States and Poland, the breed is referred to simply as PON. Although PONs nearly became extinct after World War II, they made a dramatic comeback in the 1950s and — though still relatively rare in the U.S. — they are currently popular in their native Poland as companion dogs for apartment dwellers and as working farm dogs in rural areas.

  The PON belongs to the American Kennel Club Herding Dog Group. Not surprisingly, the PON has strong herding instincts and a loyal personality. Like other herding breeds, the PON is also an independent thinker. He is a smart, self-confident dog that thrives within a family and typically is wary of strangers.

  One outstanding characteristic of the PON is his uncanny memory, which makes him a quick study and relatively easy to train. However, he is strong willed and will try to dominate his owner if given the chance.

  The PON is an active dog who requires a good deal of exercise — don't expect your PON to be a couch potato — but he isn't hyperactive or nervous. This is a breed with a strong work ethic who enjoys having a job to do, especially if it means doing it for his family. Obedience training and agility classes are good outlets for the PON, providing him with both mental and physical stimulation.

  The PON is not a party animal: he tends to attach himself to a select few people and remains aloof with others. It's important to socialize him from puppyhood so he becomes accustomed to many different kinds of people. Take the cute PON puppy with you to the park or on errands, and let people admire and touch him.

  The PON is generally good with children and other pets if he is raised with them from puppyhood. Don't be surprised if he tries to herd the kids, though: he likes to keep his flock (human or otherwise) neatly gathered in one spot.

  Despite his aloof and hardworking tendencies, the PON is a naturally happy dog with a joyful personality. He also knows what he wants and how to get it. If he has his eye on something, he will typically stare at the object of desire, then glance at you, patiently waiting for you to understand. When his patience wears out, however, he can be a thief, stealing household item such as towels or tools, and stashing them away. As some PON owners say, "First they steal your heart, and then they steal your underwear!"

  .

• Highlights

  • The PON appreciates a good meal and would prefer to repeat the experience often every day. Don't give in when he gives you that pathetic, hungry look. Since he won't monitor his food intake, you have to: feed him only the amounts appropriate for his size and age, and remember that snacks and treats count.
  • That cute, shaggy PON puppy can easily fool you into thinking he's an amenable dog who'll follow your every whim. Not so — the PON has a very strong personality, even as a youngster. He thinks for himself. That's certainly a good trait for a working dog, but it also means his owner must be firm, fair, and persistent. In other words, you have to be the boss.
  • The PON adores his family, but he's aloof and suspicious toward strangers. Don't expect him to greet your dinner guests with a friendly look and a wagging tail. Proper socialization is essential to encourage the PON to be comfortable with a variety of people, so get him out and about among friendly strangers from the very beginning. Puppy classes are an excellent idea.
  • While he isn't hyperactive, the PON does have a lot of energy and stamina. If he doesn't get enough mental and physical stimulation, he'll get bored (don't we all), which can lead to excessive barking, chewing, or digging. To prevent problem behaviors, keep the PON busy with activities and don't leave him alone for long periods of time.
  • While the PON's shaggy coat is adorable, let's face it: it does require a great deal of grooming. If that's not for you, or if you can't delegate the job to another willing family member, consider a different breed.
  • To get a healthy pet, never buy a puppy from a backyard breeder, puppy mill, or pet store. Find a reputable breeder who tests her breeding dogs for genetic health conditions and good temperaments

• History

  The Polish Lowland Sheepdog is an old breed. He is believed to be descended from the Puli, a Hungarian herding dog, as well as central Asian dogs including the Tibetan Mastiff, Tibetan Spaniel, Lhasa Apso, and Tibetan Terrier. One intriguing — and not impossible — theory is that the Huns were responsible for spreading the breed to many different countries as they plundered their way through various cultures.

  In 1514, a Polish merchant named Kazimierz Grabski sailed from Gdansk to Scotland with a cargo of grain to exchange for Scottish sheep. Six PONs were onboard to herd the sheep and, as the story goes, a Scottish shepherd asked for a pair of PONs in exchange for a ram. The shepherd got a deal: two female PONs and one male. It's commonly believed that these three dogs were used to crossbreed with Scottish dogs to develop the Bearded Collie.

  The ongoing story of the PON is a history of survival. In the 1800s, when sheep herding declined in Poland, the number of PONs also declined. World War II, which brought terrible devastation to Poland, almost decimated the breed. Luckily, a Polish veterinarian named Dr. Danuta Hryniewics took action. She began efforts to save the breed with the help of her own PON, a male named Smok. Smok sired 10 litters of PONs in the 1950s; in 1958, the first litter with a full pedigree was born. By 1969, her Kordegardy Kennels had produced more than 140 puppies, including many champions. All PONs in existence today can be traced back to Smok and his progeny.

  In 1959, a breed standard was written for the PON and accepted by the Fédération Cynologique Internationale. Not surprisingly, Smok was the model for this standard.

  In 1979, a U.S. Bearded Collie breeder named Moira Morrison learned of the PON ancestry in her breed. Intrigued, she imported two PONs from Poland — the first known to have come to the U.S. Four years later, Kaz and Betty Augustowski, both of Polish heritage, saw an advertisement in a dog magazine and acquired their first PON. Over the next 18 years, they became passionately involved in getting the breed recognized by the American Kennel Club. Their efforts were rewarded when PONs gained entry into the Miscellaneous class on July 1, 1999, The AKC granted the breed full recognition on August 1, 2001.

  Although the PON is still rare in America, today it is the most popular of all the native breeds in its home country and is unofficially considered Poland's national dog.

• Size

  Males and females stand 17 to 20 inches tall and weigh 35 to 55 pounds.

• Personality

  The PON is a highly intelligent, hardworking dog. He is known for his ability to remember what he learns — both good and bad habits. He is strong willed and can be stubborn, so he needs an owner who will kindly and consistently provide leadership. Otherwise, he will try to rule the roost.

  Because of his working heritage, the PON likes to be busy, physically and mentally. He needs activities to challenge him: hiking, herding, agility, tracking, and advanced obedience training are all good bets. If he isn't provided proper outlets for his energy, he is likely to express himself through more annoying amusements such as barking, digging, and chewing.

  The PON doesn't make friends with just anyone. He is most comfortable with his family and is suspicious of people he doesn't know.

• Health

  PONs are generally healthy, but like all breeds of dogs, they're prone to certain conditions and diseases.

  • Canine hip dysplasia is an inherited condition in which the thighbone doesn't fit snugly into the hip joint. Some dogs show pain and lameness on one or both rear legs, but others don't display outward signs of discomfort. (X-ray screening is the most certain way to diagnose the problem.) Either way, arthritis can develop as the dog ages. Dogs with hip dysplasia should not be bred — so if you're buying a puppy, ask the breeder for proof that the parents have been tested for hip dysplasia and are free of problems.
  • Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) is actually a family of eye diseases involving the gradual deterioration of the retina. In the early stages of the disease, dogs become night blind; eventually they lose their daytime vision as well.

• Care

  The Polish Lowland Sheepdog prefers a cooler climate, but he can adapt to warmer temperatures as long as he has adequate, cool shelter. Although the PON is ideally suited for rural life, he does well in apartments and houses without backyards as long as he has a job to do and is taken outside frequently for exercise. If he isn't herding a flock on a farm, he appreciates the challenge of obedience, agility, or herding competitions, or even just hiking and jogging with you.

• Feeding

  Recommended daily amount: 1.5 to 2.5 cups of high-quality dry food a day.

  Note: How much your adult dog eats depends on his size, age, build, metabolism, and activity level. Dogs are individuals, just like people, and they don't all need the same amount of food. It almost goes without saying that a highly active dog will need more than a couch potato dog. The quality of dog food you buy also makes a difference — the better the dog food, the further it will go toward nourishing your dog and the less of it you'll need to shake into your dog's bowl.

  The PON benefits from two meals a day rather than one — and don't leave food out for him all the time. He's known for his hearty appetite and will overeat if he can. If you're unsure whether there's too much fat under all that fur (it's hard to tell by simply looking), give him the hands-on test by placing your hands on his back, thumbs along the spine, with the fingers spread downward. You should be able to feel (but not see) his ribs without having to press hard. If you can't, he needs less food and more exercise.

  For more on feeding your PON, see our guidelines for buying the right food, feeding your puppy, and feeding your adult dog.

• Coat Color And Grooming

  The shaggy PON has a long, dense topcoat and a soft, thick undercoat. The coat comes in many colors; the most common are white with black, gray, or sandy patches; or gray with white or chocolate. Occasionally, a PON is

  all white, all black, or black and tan. Most PONs are born with a darker puppy coat than they will have as adults, with the exception of puppies born white. The PON is considered a nonshedding breed.

  When it comes to grooming the PON, the natural look is in. That doesn't mean the breed doesn't need grooming — in fact, that shaggy coat needs a lot of grooming to keep it free of tangles, though no trimming is necessary or even recommended. Breed enthusiasts stress the importance of not primping the PON.

  Plan on brushing and combing thoroughly at least twice a week, and always before bathing (detangling spray is helpful). A bath every two months may be necessary. Like all dogs with fluffy coats, the PON gets dirty easily, so you're in for muddy paws, leaves or burrs tracked into the house, feces on the hindquarters, or a wet and dirty beard.

  Trim your PON's nails once a month, and check his ears once a week for dirt, redness, or a bad odor that can indicate an infection. Wipe them out weekly (and after bathing or any other time the PON gets wet) with a cotton ball dampened with gentle, pH-balanced ear cleaner to prevent problems.

  The PON coat can be too much for an inexperienced owner to handle, so you consider having a professional groomer help with the upkeep. That won't let you completely off the hook, though. You'll still need to brush that coat thoroughly between professional grooming sessions. If you aren't crazy about combing and brushing — no doubt about it, it's a lot of work — you may want to consider another breed.

• Children And Other Pets

  Your PON will be your devoted, lifelong friend. His loyal nature makes him a loving companion for an individual or family — he'll consider the family his flock. He gets along with children and other animals best if he's raised with them. Because he is naturally wary of outsiders (a good trait for a herding/guard dog), the PON is most likely to accept as part of his flock those he knows from puppyhood. He is likely to remain aloof with those he doesn't know, though he can warm up to family friends and pets with exposure and positive interaction.

Read more at http://dogtime.com/dog-breeds/polish-lowland-sheepdog#D1pvDVZO5tSjh9S2.99